The Eyes Have It: Eye Makeup

The eyes, in my opinion, are the most important part of the face. If I get the eyes correct, everything else seems to fall into place. They are also fundamental in setting the mood. Therefore, because of its significance, this article appears in both the Photography and Makeup sections.

Eye makeup varies considerably from day to evening to clubbing. Special emphasis should also be placed on the eyes for photos. Below are three photos: the first is with no makeup; in the second, one eye is made up for daytime (to your left), the other for evening; and in the third, a dramatic look is created for late night, which is also good for photos.

No makeup As discussed in Makeup Basics, the lashes are my starting point. Adding lashes immediately brings life to the eyes. Three different sizes are used in these photos, in addition to the natural lashes in the first photo.

half way The middle photo shows one eye finished for day wear (to your left), the other for evening. The eye to your right has longer lashes, more eye shadow, and more liner under the eye. Also a bit of pearl shadow on the brow bone gives the appearance of a higher eyebrow. The glitzy right eye almost makes the daytime left eye appear undone...until it is compared to the "before makeup" photo.

Makeup finishedThe third photo was taken after the eye lashes were exchanged for a fuller set. Also, additional shadow was added to the outside third of the brow and the outside corner below the eye. If you want your eyes to look really nice put a drop of Naphcon A or other red reducing eye drop in each eye. This will whiten them and give a lot of contrast to the eye makeup. Do not use eye drops to often as many are a type of decongestant and may be habit forming.

A few shots outside

Now that the eyes are finished, let's pop outside for some photos. Remember in the Photography section the discussion about backgrounds? Why waste a good makeup job with a poor background. We could have shot inside, but the weather is great, and it's a good time to point out how nice a picture you get using fill-in flash while in the shade.

Sharon DeWitt

Sharon outside

The heavier than normal makeup on the eyes works in these photos, even in the daylight. As we discussed in the Photography section, makeup can be heavier in photos.

I notice that I forgot to do my nails in these photos. Oh well, there is always next time. 

Eyelashes are my substitute for mascara. I have found them easier to apply. For a more dramatic look, select heavier lashes. Many people have trouble with lashes, so here are some suggestions. Although this sounds time consuming, using this method, a set of lashes can be applied in 2 minutes and will stay on all day and evening.

Buy wisp lashes with a clear band and spacing between the lashes; this allows the lash to bend easier. Remember what you buy, because if it works for you, keep buying the same to KISS (Keep It Simple Sweetheart). Buy lash adhesive; it comes in small tubes. I haven't noticed much difference in brands, but I've been using Andrea®.

Preparation: Remove the lash from the container ahead of time. When they are new, lashes are glued to the container and difficult to remove when in a hurry. Take your time, because if the individual lashes are moved on the band, it is nearly impossible to get them back where they belong. Start at one end and pry up slowly. If an end lash or two are messed up, they can be cut off because the band is usually longer than needed. Many people do not extend the lashband all the way to the inside corner of the eye. Play with this to see what's more aesthetic on your eyes. But do extend the lashband almost all the way to the outside corner of the eye.

Position the band along natural lashes to see where the lash will start and end. Longest lashes to the outside and going almost to the outer corner of the eye. Pay attention to where the inner part of the band ends because this is the point to start at during final application. Reread that last sentence; it's important. Place back in the container and they're ready when needed.

Application: Place a small drop of adhesive on the container. Remove a lash. Hold by the long hairs and drag band lightly through the adhesive, then drag the band over the container edge to wipe off excess adhesive. The adhesive on the band should run the full length and be slightly thicker than the band thickness. If adhesive gets on the lashes push excess back to the band. Remember: the longest lashes go to the outside of the eye. Close your eye almost all the way. Place the band on the lash line at the starting point (inner edge toward nose) and press lightly into place. If your fingers are too large, use the handle of a small makeup brush or some similar non-pointy object. After secure (about 4 to 5 seconds), drape remainder of lash along lash line and press lightly into place allowing a few seconds for the glue to adhere.

Troubleshooting: If there are any spots along the lash line where the adhesive has not adhered, try pressing and holding. Once a lash is pressed into place, repositioned lash usually will not adhere without re-glueing. If a complete bond is not obtained, the lash has a good chance of working loose later in the evening. So, for the beginner, it is best just to start over.  If loose or gaps, I touch up with lash adhesive on a corner of a small piece of cardboard about the thickness of an index card. The cardboard gets easily into any crack. If the Lash isn't perfectly straight fill in with eyeliner after the adhesive has dried. I like to start with lashes first, to prevent other makeup from interfering with the bonding.

I have been experimenting with mascara (now that my lashes are growing) and have found some satifactory results. However, I still prefer false eyelashes.

When applying lashes, use a thin line of lash glue, no more than twice the thickness of the lash ban..

For Long Lasting Eye Shadow: Apply concealer to your eyelids, before applying your eye shadow. So I've heard.

For Long Lasting Eyeliner: Apply pencil eyeliner to your eyes. Then brush the same color powder eye shadow over the eyeliner. It should last all day. So I've heard.

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